Birds of Paradise
London, 1 – 12 December 2010
The 3rd Fashion in Film Festival is proud to present Birds of Paradise, an intoxicating exploration of costume as a form of cinematic spectacle throughout European and American cinema.
There will be exclusive screenings of rare and unseen films, plus two special commissions as part of the season: an installation for Somerset House by the award-winning Jason Bruges Studio and a London-wide Kinoscope Parlour, an installation of six peephole machines designed by Mark Garside after Thomas A. Edison’s kinetoscopes.
From the exquisitely opulent films of the silent era, to the sybaritic, lavishly stylised underground films of the 1940s -1970s, costume has, for a long time, played a significant role in cinema as a vital medium for showcasing such basic properties of film as movement, change, light and colour. The festival programme explores episodes in film history which most distinctly foreground costume, adornment and styling as vehicles of sensuous pleasure and enchantment.
Experimental films by Kenneth Anger, Jack Smith, Ron Rice, José Rodriguez-Soltero, Steven Arnold and James Bidgood constitute one such episode. Their decadent, highly stylised visions full of lyrical fascination with jewellery, textures, layers, glittering fabrics and make-up unlock the splendour and excess of earlier periods of popular cinema, especially ‘spectacle’ and Orientalist films of the 1920s; early dance, trick and féerie films of the 1890s and 1900s; and Hollywood exotica of the 1940s.
The festival boasts many rare UK screenings including Nino Oxilia’s Rapsodia Satanica (1915/1917), Jack Smith’s Normal Love (1964), José Rodriguez-Soltero’s Lupe (1966), Michael Curtiz’s Red Heels (1925), Albert Capellani’s The Red Lantern (1919) and Germaine Dulac’s La Princesse Mandane (1928).
Programme Curator Marketa Uhlirova
Associate Curator and Kinescope Parlour Co-curator Inga Fraser
Tate Programme curated by Marketa Uhlirova, Ronald Gregg, Stuart Comer
Birds of Paradise: Costume as a Cinematic Spectacle is also the title of an illustrated book edited by Marketa Uhlirova and published by Wallflower Press in Spring 2011. Contributors include Catherine Hindson, Jody Sperling, Giovanni Lista, José Teunissen, Sumiko Higashi, Lucy Fischer, Karl Toepfer, Esther Leslie, Juan Antonio Suarez, Ronald Gregg and Ryan Powell.
Festival takes place at following venues: BFI Southbank, Tate Modern, Barbican, The Horse Hospital.
BFI Southbank presents some of the most visually compelling films made in America and Europe during the entire silent film period, highlighting the marvellous and the fantastic with such rarely screened gems as Albert Capellani’s The Red Lantern (1919), Jean Durand’s l’île d’amour (1927), Alexandre Volkoff’s Secrets of the East (1928), the recent restoration of Joë Francis’s La Revue des Revues (1927) including colour sequences and Cecil B. DeMille’s Male and Female (1919). All silent films in the programme will be accompanied by live music.
The Barbican programme explores the hypnotising allure of film costume, as worn by the diva, the showgirl and the dancing fairies and spectres of the silent era. Highlights include the screenings of Nino Oxilia’s Italian masterpiece Rapsodica Satanica (1915/1917) featuring one of Italy’s original film divas Lyda Borelli, Germaine Dulac’s Orientalist film La Princesse Mandane (1928) and Michael Curtiz’s Red Heels (1925). All of these magnificent European silent films are rarely screened in the UK.
The Tate strand pairs early film treasures with experimental films of the American Underground to reveal the opulence, artifice and excess in both. Sumptuous masterpieces by Segundo de Chomón, Gaston Velle and Ferdinand Zecca join riotous explosions in colour, costume and camp by legendary experimental filmmakers Kenneth Anger, Jack Smith, Ron Rice, José Rodriguez-Soltero, Steven Arnold and performer Mario Montez. Co-curated by Marketa Uhlirova, Ronald Gregg and Stuart Comer.
Special Projects
The Horse Hospital showcases the link between underground film and its direct and indirect inspirations from mainstream Hollywood cinema. Highlights include a mystery celebration of one of cinema’s greatest wizards, a screening of James Bidgood’s stunning oeuvre Pink Narcissus (1971) and Robert Siodmak’s trashy exotica Cobra Woman (1944) starring Jack Smith’s idol Maria Montez.
Including the Kinoscope Parlour, our London-wide installation of six peephole machines at twelve different locations launching in the run-up to the festival; a workshop series for 16-18 year olds; and Hemline: The Moving Screen, a commissioned artwork by the award-winning artist collective Jason Bruges Studio.
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15 November – 14 December |
Kinoscope Parlour London |
1 December – 12 December |
Hemline: The Moving Screen Somerset House |
Wednesday 1 December |
Opening Ceremony: Come as Your Own Madness 19:00, The Horse Hospital |
2 December – 10 December |
Fashion in Film Workshop Series London |
Thursday 2 December |
The Red Lantern (1919) 18:10, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
James Bidgood: Double Bill 18:45 & 20:15, The Horse Hospital |
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Friday 3 December |
Male and Female (1919) 18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Underground Opulence 18:30, Tate Modern |
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The Affairs of Anatol (1921) 20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Maria Montez Late Night Tribute: Cobra Woman (1944) 21:15, The Horse Hospital |
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Saturday 4 December |
Dreams of Darkness and Colour 16:00, Barbican |
La Princesse Mandane (1928) 18:00, Barbican |
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Unrestrained Indulgence 19:00, Tate Modern |
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Salomé (1923) 20:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Sunday 5 December |
Drag Glamour 16:00, Tate Modern |
Michael Curtiz: Double Bill 16:00 & 18:00, Barbican |
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La Revue des Revues (1927) 20:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Tuesday 7 December |
Moulin Rouge (1928) 20:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Wednesday 8 December |
L'Île D'Amour (1928) 18:00, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
The Red Lantern (1919) 20:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Thursday 9 December |
Panel Discussion: The Gossamer Wings of Early Cinema 18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Geheimnisse des Orients (1928) 20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Friday 10 December |
Male and Female (1919) 20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Saturday 11 December |
The Affairs of Anatol (1921) 16:00, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Salomé (1923) 18:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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L'Île D'Amour (1928) 20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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Sunday 12 December |
La Revue des Revues (1927) 15:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
Geheimnisse des Orients (1928) 18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2 |
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