Birds of Paradise

London, 1 – 12 December 2010

The 3rd Fashion in Film Festival is proud to present Birds of Paradise, an intoxicating exploration of costume as a form of cinematic spectacle throughout European and American cinema.

There will be exclusive screenings of rare and unseen films, plus two special commissions as part of the season: an installation for Somerset House by the award-winning Jason Bruges Studio and a London-wide Kinoscope Parlour, an installation of six peephole machines designed by Mark Garside after Thomas A. Edison’s kinetoscopes.

From the exquisitely opulent films of the silent era, to the sybaritic, lavishly stylised underground films of the 1940s -1970s, costume has, for a long time, played a significant role in cinema as a vital medium for showcasing such basic properties of film as movement, change, light and colour. The festival programme explores episodes in film history which most distinctly foreground costume, adornment and styling as vehicles of sensuous pleasure and enchantment.

Experimental films by Kenneth Anger, Jack Smith, Ron Rice, José Rodriguez-Soltero, Steven Arnold and James Bidgood constitute one such episode. Their decadent, highly stylised visions full of lyrical fascination with jewellery, textures, layers, glittering fabrics and make-up unlock the splendour and excess of earlier periods of popular cinema, especially ‘spectacle’ and Orientalist films of the 1920s; early dance, trick and féerie films of the 1890s and 1900s; and Hollywood exotica of the 1940s.

The festival boasts many rare UK screenings including Nino Oxilia’s Rapsodia Satanica (1915/1917), Jack Smith’s Normal Love (1964), José Rodriguez-Soltero’s Lupe (1966), Michael Curtiz’s Red Heels (1925), Albert Capellani’s The Red Lantern (1919) and Germaine Dulac’s La Princesse Mandane (1928).


Programme Curator Marketa Uhlirova
Associate Curator and Kinescope Parlour Co-curator Inga Fraser
Tate Programme curated by Marketa Uhlirova, Ronald Gregg, Stuart Comer

Birds of Paradise: Costume as a Cinematic Spectacle is also the title of an illustrated book edited by Marketa Uhlirova and published by Wallflower Press in Spring 2011. Contributors include Catherine Hindson, Jody Sperling, Giovanni Lista, José Teunissen, Sumiko Higashi, Lucy Fischer, Karl Toepfer, Esther Leslie, Juan Antonio Suarez, Ronald Gregg and Ryan Powell.

Festival takes place at following venues: BFI Southbank, Tate Modern, Barbican, The Horse Hospital.

BFI Southbank presents some of the most visually compelling films made in America and Europe during the entire silent film period, highlighting the marvellous and the fantastic with such rarely screened gems as Albert Capellani’s The Red Lantern (1919), Jean Durand’s l’île d’amour (1927), Alexandre Volkoff’s Secrets of the East (1928), the recent restoration of Joë Francis’s La Revue des Revues (1927) including colour sequences and Cecil B. DeMille’s Male and Female (1919). All silent films in the programme will be accompanied by live music.



The Barbican programme explores the hypnotising allure of film costume, as worn by the diva, the showgirl and the dancing fairies and spectres of the silent era. Highlights include the screenings of Nino Oxilia’s Italian masterpiece Rapsodica Satanica (1915/1917) featuring one of Italy’s original film divas Lyda Borelli, Germaine Dulac’s Orientalist film La Princesse Mandane (1928) and Michael Curtiz’s Red Heels (1925). All of these magnificent European silent films are rarely screened in the UK.


The Tate strand pairs early film treasures with experimental films of the American Underground to reveal the opulence, artifice and excess in both. Sumptuous masterpieces by Segundo de Chomón, Gaston Velle and Ferdinand Zecca join riotous explosions in colour, costume and camp by legendary experimental filmmakers Kenneth Anger, Jack Smith, Ron Rice, José Rodriguez-Soltero, Steven Arnold and performer Mario Montez. Co-curated by Marketa Uhlirova, Ronald Gregg and Stuart Comer.

Special Projects



The Horse Hospital showcases the link between underground film and its direct and indirect inspirations from mainstream Hollywood cinema. Highlights include a mystery celebration of one of cinema’s greatest wizards, a screening of James Bidgood’s stunning oeuvre Pink Narcissus (1971) and Robert Siodmak’s trashy exotica Cobra Woman (1944) starring Jack Smith’s idol Maria Montez.

Including the Kinoscope Parlour, our London-wide installation of six peephole machines at twelve different locations launching in the run-up to the festival; a workshop series for 16-18 year olds; and Hemline: The Moving Screen, a commissioned artwork by the award-winning artist collective Jason Bruges Studio.

READ MORE →

15 November – 14 December Kinoscope Parlour
London
1 December – 12 December Hemline: The Moving Screen
Somerset House
Wednesday 1 December Opening Ceremony: Come as Your Own Madness
19:00, The Horse Hospital
2 December – 10 December Fashion in Film Workshop Series
London
Thursday 2 December The Red Lantern (1919)
18:10, BFI Southbank, NFT2
James Bidgood: Double Bill
18:45 & 20:15, The Horse Hospital
Friday 3 December Male and Female (1919)
18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Underground Opulence
18:30, Tate Modern
The Affairs of Anatol (1921)
20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Maria Montez Late Night Tribute: Cobra Woman (1944)
21:15, The Horse Hospital
Saturday 4 December Dreams of Darkness and Colour
16:00, Barbican
La Princesse Mandane (1928)
18:00, Barbican
Unrestrained Indulgence
19:00, Tate Modern
Salomé (1923)
20:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Sunday 5 December Drag Glamour
16:00, Tate Modern
Michael Curtiz: Double Bill
16:00 & 18:00, Barbican
La Revue des Revues (1927)
20:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Tuesday 7 December Moulin Rouge (1928)
20:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Wednesday 8 December L'Île D'Amour (1928)
18:00, BFI Southbank, NFT2
The Red Lantern (1919)
20:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Thursday 9 December Panel Discussion: The Gossamer Wings of Early Cinema
18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Geheimnisse des Orients (1928)
20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Friday 10 December Male and Female (1919)
20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Saturday 11 December The Affairs of Anatol (1921)
16:00, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Salomé (1923)
18:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2
L'Île D'Amour (1928)
20:40, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Sunday 12 December La Revue des Revues (1927)
15:30, BFI Southbank, NFT2
Geheimnisse des Orients (1928)
18:20, BFI Southbank, NFT2
SUPPORTED BY