Between Stigma

and Enigma

London, 14 – 27 May 2006

Between Stigma and Enigma, the 1st edition of the Fashion in Film Festival is a retrospective showcase of film and video work on fashion. We are teaming up with three London venues – Ciné lumière (French Institute), The Horse Hospital and the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) – to present a mix of early and classic cinema, contemporary art, as well as documentary, instruction and propaganda film. Films by distinguished filmmakers such as Alfred Hitchcock, Louis Buñuel, Vera Chytilová and Bruce Weber will be screened alongside documentary, instructional and propaganda films, newsreels, artist videos and fashion image-makers’ shorts.

Fashion in Film Festival is especially delighted to host a special screening of the rarely seen cult film Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? and welcome its director William Klein as the Festival’s 2006 Guest of Honour.

The programme features films and videos that have fashion and clothing as their central theme, bringing together a variety of genres that have reported on, promoted and documented fashion, otherwise “spoken” about it or used it to attract and entertain audiences. It explores the ambiguous relationship between the machines of Western fashion and film, revealing film’s tendency to discredit fashion while paradoxically celebrating its seductive power and enigmatic qualities. Clothing will be revisited as fashion’s proper subject, with the aim to establish an intimacy between clothing and the film viewer.

Film screenings will be followed by lectures, informal talks and Q&A sessions with filmmakers, artists, critics and fashion designers including Anna-Nicole Ziesche, Jean-François Carly, Penny Martin and Shelley Fox. Two silent films in the Shoes, Eroticism and Fetish programme, The Gay Shoe Clerk (1903) and the rare gem Amor Pedestre (1914), will be accompanied by music especially composed for the occasion by The WOLFMEN’s Marco Pirroni and Chris Constantinou.

Programme Curators: Marketa Uhlirova and Christel Tsilibaris.

Guest Curators: Roger K. Burton, Adrian Garvey, Edward Barber and Alistair O’Neill.

The festival takes place in following venues: Ciné Lumière (French Institute), Institute of Contemporary Arts and The Horse Hospital.

This Saturday film-marathon guest-curated by Roger K. Burton illustrates how fashion in its extreme sits uncomfortably in the real world.

A programme which concentrates on the idea of a woman dressing and undressing in her own private space. With an introduction by Alistair O’Neill.

A programme of artist films, newsreels and fashion shorts exploring the art of posing, followed by fashion photographer Jean-François Carly and fashion designer Shelley Fox in conversation with Penny Martin, Editor-in-Chief of SHOWstudio.

Confronted with the War, fashion responded by entering into a dialogue with politics. Programme includes newsreels from Pathé Gaumont Archives, British Pathé and Imperial War Museum.

Many Hitchcock films focus on transgressive female characters – strong but troubled figures who are ultimately punished for their deviance.

A two-part programme that explores the fashion world through the documentary mode.

This programme explores various routines of wearing and showing off shoes for the film camera, focusing on the notions of exhibiting, revealing, voyeurism and morality. Introduced by festival co-curator Christel Tsilibaris.

This programme celebrates the secret life of clothes, and the enigmatic qualities that emanate from them when animated by film. It explores the links between films by early cinema pioneers and artists on the one hand, and commercials on the other.

Chytilová’s Ceiling and Klein’s Who are You, Polly Maggoo? make two powerful comments on 1960s fashion and cinematography. Both are prime examples of cinema d’auteur but each has a strikingly different vision and sensibility.

Howards Hawks’s comedy Fig Leaves remains one of the most remarkable preserved ‘fashion show films’ of the silent era. The film light-heartedly suggests that fashion is the Satan ultimately responsible for the fall of (wo)mankind.

Sunday 14 May 2006 Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? (1966)
14:00, Ciné Lumière
Monday 15 May 2006 Fig Leaves (1926)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Fashion and Hollywood
19:30, ICA Cinema
Tuesday 16 May 2006 Warner Corset Advertisement (c. 1910~)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Ghosts Before Breakfast (1928)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Going to Bed Under Difficulties (1900)
20:30, ICA Cinema
In a Hurry to Catch a Train (1901)
20:30, ICA Cinema
The Extinct World of Gloves (1982)
20:30, ICA Cinema
A Week in Film No.12 (1947)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Tough Stockings (1960)
20:30, ICA Cinema
States of Mind and Dress (2002)
20:30, ICA Cinema
59 Positions (1992)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Chapels: Bernhard Willhelm (2002)
20:30, ICA Cinema
One and One Now Make Two While Before It Only Made One (2000)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Wednesday 17 May 2006 Paris: Women’s Shoes in Lafayette Galleries (1912)
19:30, Ciné Lumière
The Gay Shoe Clerk (1903)
19:30, Ciné Lumière
Amor Pedestre (1914)
19:30, Ciné Lumière
Shoes Talk Too (1949)
19:30, Ciné Lumière
Diary of a Chambermaid (1964)
19:30, Ciné Lumière
Thursday 18 May 2006 Vertigo (1958)
19:00, Ciné Lumière
Friday 19 May 2006 Chop Suey (2001)
18:15, ICA Cinema
Model (1980)
18:15, ICA Cinema
Saturday 20 May 2006 Ceiling (1962)
16:00, ICA Cinema
Lady with a Hat (1999)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Fashion for Shelter (1939)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Fashion Inspired by the War (1939)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Berlin Fashion School (1940)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Tin Hats for All (1941)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Germ Masks for the Crowds (1941)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Safety Styles (1942)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Stockings (1941)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Day-to-Day Frock (1943)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Evening and Day Frock (1943)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
How to Make Do and Mend (1943)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Rationing in Britain (1944)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Clothes distribution to children in Athens, Greece (1945)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Shoes distribution to Greek refugees in the Middle East (1944)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Clothes and the Man (1941)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Fashion Show of Recycled Garments (1944)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Clothing for War and Peace (1945)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Fashion Show for WAAF Women (1945)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Stockholm: A Fashion Show in Miniature (1945)
20:00, The Horse Hospital
Sunday 21 May 2006 Volume (2000)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Four Beautiful Pairs (1904)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
How Mannequins Are Made (1941)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Mannequins à Vendre (1938)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
School for Mannequins (1944)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
I Feel (2005)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
It’s Like Being (2003)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Photo-Shoot (2001)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Smooth with the Rough (1944)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Shelley Fox 14 (2002)
17:00, The Horse Hospital
Wednesday 24 May 2006 Lady with a Hat (1999)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Fashion for Shelter (1939)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Fashion Inspired by the War (1939)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Berlin Fashion School (1940)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Tin Hats for All (1941)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Germ Masks for the Crowds (1941)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Safety Styles (1942)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Stockings (1941)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Day-to-Day Frock (1943)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Evening and Day Frock (1943)
18:30, ICA Cinema
How to Make Do and Mend (1943)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Rationing in Britain (1944)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Clothes distribution to children in Athens, Greece (1945)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Shoes distribution to Greek refugees in the Middle East (1944)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Clothes and the Man (1941)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Fashion Show of Recycled Garments (1944)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Clothing for War and Peace (1945)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Fashion Show for WAAF Women (1945)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Stockholm: A Fashion Show in Miniature (1945)
18:30, ICA Cinema
Friday 26 May 2006 Twinkle (1992)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Boccaccio ’70: Il Lavoro (1962)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Puce Moment (1949)
20:30, ICA Cinema
Saturday 27 May 2006 Paris is Burning (1990)
15:00, The Horse Hospital
Liquid Sky (1982)
15:00, The Horse Hospital
The Wild, Wild World of Jayne Mansfield (1968)
19:10, The Horse Hospital
True Stories (1986)
19:10, The Horse Hospital 
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